A Hedonist's Guide to Almaty-and-Astana

Probably one of the world's most misunderstood countries, Kazakhstan has more to offer than mankinis and toothless crones. With a wealth of natural beauty and an increasingly cool vibe, be one of the first visitors to explore the steppes, mountains, mosques and lounge-bars.

Lucy Kelaart and Summer Coish have been in on the Kazakh secret for some while and that this book exists at all is a testament to their persuasive enthusiasm. Both have lived in Almaty on and off for some years and they have explored the region extensively in that time. Aside from writing Hg2 Almaty & Astana, they publish a quarterly magazine to the regional called Steppe Magazine.

Kazakhstan - are you serious?!

Indeed we are. Intrigued by Borat we thought the country deserved a closer look and we were surprised by what we found. The old capital, Almaty, is an oasis of cool in the middle of the steppe, with new lounge bars and chic restaurants opening every month. The new capital Astana, is becoming an architectural wonderland with Kazakhstan 's petro-dollars being translated into innovative new buildings.

How long do I stay?

Many of Kazakhstan's visitors are there for business rather than pleasure. If pleasure if your goal, we recommend either a long weekend in Almaty, or longer trip if you plan to ski, explore, fish or otherwise take in the pleasures of the extraordinarily beautiful landscape.

When should I go?

Winter, which reaches from mid-October to late April, can drop to -30 degrees but that brings its own pleasures - Almaty's snow covered trees have a magical charm and Astana's river Ishim can be skied and skated on. Summer seems to arrive almost overnight, and temperatures can soar to 35 degrees in July and August. If you would like to do any trekking, the season lasts from June-mid September. Autumn is also a wonderful time to visit, the bazaars are stocked with local produce and the trees turn gold.

Where should I stay?

The boutique hotel revolution is yet to hit Kazakhstan and most hotels are geared towards the business traveller. The Hyatt and Intercontinental offer reliable international standards in Almaty, although the JW Marriott at Esentai Park (due to open in 2008) should set a new high water mark. In Astana, again we recommend the Intercontinental (particularly for the spa), the newer Radisson SAS and the Rixos President Hotel.

What do I need to take?

    * A spirit of adventure
    * A fur hat in winter, a mankini in summer (only joking....)
    * Paracetamol for the morning after
    * A good pair of shoes to deal with a lot of walking
    * Hg2 Almaty & Astana, your invaluable guide to both cities

Now all you need to do is book that flight and enjoy!