Almaty-and-Astana : Sleep
The true hedonist never sleeps, partying until dawn, but for the weary Almaty has a comprehensive selection of hotels – although you’ll find the majority of are geared towards the businessman, not the tourist, with prices to match: cheap or boutique hotels do not exist here.The good news, however, is that the arrival of two brand new luxury hotels (the JW Marriott Esentai Park and the Holiday Inn), with more in the pipeline, is revolutionizing the quality of accommodation in Almaty, sending the established hotels into a frenzy of reconstruction, renovation and refurbishment (three words best summed up by the catch-all Russian word remont).
At the top end, the international chains – the Hyatt and the Intercontinental – offer a reliable international standard of service, a concept which should be treated like gold dust in a region where service can often come in a sullen, unresponsive package. These two hotels are situated in the Business District, along with a number of other hotels such as the Grand Aiser, the Grand Eurasia Hotel and the Astana International – cheaper than the international chains, and Turkish-run, so adhering to a higher standard than regular hotels.
Tucked away in Almaty’s central district, the newly opened Grand Tien Shan Hotel and the Ambassador and Dostyk Hotels, which have both been recently renovated, are perfectly situated if you want to explore the centre of the city by foot. Beware, however, that new does not necessarily mean that everything is in good working order. If you are prepared for the occasional malfunction, you will find yourself far better able to relax than if you come expecting the best of western style service and standards.
Perhaps Almaty’s most beloved hotel is the Hotel Kazakhstan (right), which dominates the city skyline and even turns up on the back of the 5,000 tenge note. Recent renovations have perked up what was a fairly standard Soviet offering, and like many of the hotel rooms in the city, especially in the business district, the upper floor rooms offer fabulous views of the mountains to the south.
Two other ex-Soviet hotels are the Hotel Otrar adjoining Panfilov Park and the Hotel Alma-Ata opposite the Abai Opera and Ballet Theatre. You can’t beat their locations, and they are institutions that are worth seeing, especially if you are nostalgic for a bit of the old USSR.
If you are looking for peace, quiet and fresh air, we can recommend the ex-Soviet Alatau Sanatorium. Although it sounds menacing, this was the Communist Party elite’s venue of choice for R&R in Soviet times. Situated roughly 15km west of the city centre, it can take a considerable amount of time to get there if the traffic is heavy, and so is worth visiting only if you have the time to relax and enjoy one of the most unspoilt views of the Zhailiskii Alatau Mountains Almaty has to offer.
Prices in the guide range from the price of a standard single room to the price of the presidential suite (if there is one). Because Almaty is a year-round destination, there is no official high or low season.
