Charlottenburg and Wilmersdorf
Stepping into West Berlin is like entering another city. In contrast to the transient bar and café scene of the East, Charlottenburg and Wilmersdorf are far more established. The buildings look smarter, the cars more flash and the pace is considerably slower. This is the decadent Berlin famously portrayed by Liza Minelli et al in ‘Cabaret’ – a million miles from the bleak architecture of the east.
Following Reunification, the city’s demographic shifted with Berlin’s younger generations migrating east. Initially the change was quite dramatic, but in recent years the flux has stabilized. Club and bar openings are on the increase and the one-time disaffected youth are starting to trickle back home. That said, you’d be hard-pushed to find an East Berliner who’d consider crossing wWst and vice-versa
Berlin’s busiest shopping district is located along the Ku’damm. The fractured spire of the Kaiser Wilhelm Memorial Church is the area’s most notable landmark. A one-time hang-out for junkies and unsavoury characters, the Zoologuischer Garten forms a major gateway to the West. It’s since been cleaned up, but the neon lights and tourist-trap eateries are an unforgettable reminder of a seedy past. Travel further along the never-ending street and you’ll stumble on some of the biggest names in fashion design, along with the fantastic KaDeWe – Berlin’s answer to Harrods. Berlin’s stylish design hotels (Q! and K’udamm 101) are also located in this area.. The road takes its name from the Prussian Kurfürst (‘Elector’) and was originally just a track leading from the Elector’s residence to the Grunewald. In 1886 it was remodelled by Bismarck on the grand boulevards of Paris.
Far more pleasant is the area around Savignyplatz, with its innumerable chic boutiques, restaurants and cafés. During the day, it’s the reserve of ladies-who-lunch and at night an affluent restaurant crowd descend. A pretty picture of 19th-century buildings line the tranquil streets of Bleibtreustraße, while Berlin’s major jazz clubs, concert halls and theatres can also be found nearby (the cabaret and excess of the 1920s had their roots here). Fasanenstraße also has some especially good spots.
Many of Berlin’s better restaurants can also be found this side of town. Generally, the quality of food and location is consistently higher. While neighbourhood favourites such as Florian and Lubitsch are popular with locals, try Jules Verne for innovative fusion cuisine and Engelbecken for a lakeside retreat. While operating a safe distance from the cutting egde, both Charlottenberg and Wilmersdorf undeniably represent Berlin’s past and present glories.
