Review

This hilltop pensão opened in 1969 and little has changed since. The formica floors and pine veneer panels of the lobby are deliciously tacky. It’s a look retro obsessives would pay thousands to re-create. Rooms are simple, but clean and bright.

Several have private balconies with fantastic views of the city and the Tejo; make sure you request these when making a reservation. A roof-top bar (also open to non-residents) serves light meals, and the terrace is the perfect place to enjoy a romantic breakfast.

The pace is slow, atmosphere peaceful and ideally suited to couples; the busy city centre feels a million miles away. Not an ideal choice for those who like to be in the thick of the action. There are certainly more luxurious hotels in Lisbon, but few that possess the same captivating charm.