The Old City / La Latina
South of the Gran Via, between the Plaza Mayor, the Palacio Real and San Francisco el Grande, lies the oldest part of Madrid, with the oldest part of all found between the Plaza de la Cebada, Plaza Mayor and the Palacio Real. This is the site of the medieval Muslim town, characterized by winding, often hilly cobbled streets which are now home to exclusive restaurants and wine bars.
Plaza Mayor is the obvious meeting-place, but the area is dotted with other squares that are prettier and less touristy. Head south to the series of squares in La Latina (Plaza de la Paja, Plaza de San Andres, Plaza de la Cebada), which are surrounded by some of the city’s coolest and more chilled bars and cafés. Delic, La Musa Latina, Carpanta and Lamiak are hugely popular hang-outs, just far enough away from the centre not to be plagued by tourists. This mainly pedestrianized area is great on a sunny afternoon but comes into its own at night, when crowds of trendy Madrilenos gather here for wine and tapas.
One of Madrid’s most famous meeting-places, the three-storey El Viajero is a great place to start off the evening, before moving between the different bars. On summer evenings it seems as if there are as many people on the streets, walking between venues, as there are inside them.
East of here is the colourful working-class neighbourhood of Lavapies, with an ethnic mix of North Africans, Indians, Chinese and Turks. It’s home to the city’s famous Sunday market, El Rastro, where thousands of people flock in search of bargains, but shops selling cheap clothes and leather are open all week.
To the west of the Plaza Mayor lies Royal Madrid, encompassing the impressive royal palace, the cathedral, the theatre and the Campo del Moro park, beyond which stretches the Casa de Campo wilderness. Tourists and locals sip coffee in atmospheric cafés, such as Café de los Austrias and Café de Oriente, whose beautiful terrace overlooks the palace.
The Old City is naturally the most touristy part of Madrid and some of its restaurants and bars are overpriced, but it’s worth paying that little bit extra for the pleasure of the surroundings. This is the prettiest and most atmospheric part of the city; take time off for an afternoon stroll and wonder at the architecture and the history.
