Gueliz / Hivernage
Gueliz – the New City – was constructed in 1913, soon after the French took power. The broad, European-style avenues and boulevards convey a sense of space, order and cleanliness a world away from the intricate, odorous chaos of the Medina.
This very Westernized quarter – which borders Hivernage, ostensibly an extension of Gueliz – is home to the business community. Alongside the financial institutions, post offices and other economic franchises, however, is an attractive array of restaurants, bars, galleries and clubs.
Much of the city’s nightlife is located in this area, since the licensing restrictions are much more relaxed here than they are in the Medina. Local drinking spots include chill-out bar Le Lounge, Le Comptoir, Montecristo and the opulent Jad Mahal. It’s also a short taxi ride from these bars to nightclubs such as VIP, Diamant Doir, Paradise and Theatro, where you can party on until 4am.
Gueliz/Hivernage is also home to some of the city’s best restaurants, cafés and art galleries. The restaurant scene is particularly vibrant: dinner at the opulent Jad Mahal is an exercise in style and people-watching, while Lolo Quoi, Kech Mara or El Fassia offer fantastic food in unique surroundings.
There are plenty of shopping options too – for hipsters and traditionalists alike – and strolling casually along Mohammed V and its various arteries can provide pleasant respite from the intensity of the souks. Galleries in the area show new Moroccan art, clothes designers put contemporary twists on traditional styles, and furniture and antique stores allow you to realize your vision of your very own riad interior once you get home.
Although there’s not much here for the sightseer, it’s perfectly possible to spend a memorable day or evening (or both) in Gueliz, taking a sophisticated breakfast at the Grand Café de la Poste or the Café du Livre (or more traditional fare at Les Negoçiants), visiting the Majorelle Gardens, or the central market (Marché Central) and then heading to one of the many restaurants, bars or clubs come night-time.
A petit taxi between the Medina and Gueliz costs around 10dh and takes around 5 minutes.
Marrakech City
One of the most talked-about cities in recent years, Marrakech has become the destination for those interested in design, shopping and the naturally exotic. The centrepiece in what is widely regarded as North Africa’s adventure playground, it has brought international sophistication to this dusty, dry corner of the world.
Despite almost 50 years of French occupation and a brisk trade in tourism, the city has maintained a sense of mystery and old-world charm not found anywhere else so close to Europe.
The city was initially founded in 1062 by the Almoravids – a Berber tribe that planted the first palm trees and erected the distinctive Medina walls, which still stand proudly today. Over the next thousand years the city came under the rule of various tribes and peoples: the Almohads (1147–1289), the Merenids (1276–1554), the Saadians (1549–1668) and, between 1912 and 1956, the French.
It was during the Swinging Sixties that Marrakech acquired its bohemian appeal, as the likes of Yves Saint Laurent, The Beatles, The Stones and Jean-Paul Getty all chose to hang out here. Over the ensuing decades increasing numbers of style-conscious ex-pats came to the city to invest their money and design ideas, thus creating the mix of ancient tradition and modern chic that epitomizes the place today. Its sophisticated riads, influenced and inspired by Islamic art but also by practical necessity, continue to captivate visitors with their luxurious, photogenic interiors and indulgent atmosphere.
Meanwhile, the streets of the Medina remain relatively unchanged, providing a rare insight into the lives of ordinary Marrakchi and catapulting visitors back in time. The dust and heat of the Medina streets contrasts markedly with the relative sophistication and Westernization of Gueliz and other, newer, parts of the city.
There are many ways to spend a perfect day and night in the city. You could wander the ancient Medina streets in the morning, soaking up the bustling, ramshackle, pre-industrial atmosphere, hunting down some bargains and visiting a museum or Medersa. You could take a lunch break in one of the refined eateries that lie behind the Medina’s dusty doors. Afterwards, head to Gueliz to check out an art gallery or treat yourself to some new clothes in the city’s boutiques.
In the evening, indulge in the full grandeur of the Moroccan dining experience at one of the palace restaurants, then take a refreshing mint tea at a café on the Jemaa el Fna and marvel at the nocturnal madness that has been unfolding in a similar way for the last thousand years. When the night is done, head back to your quiet, comfortable riad for a sound night’s sleep, full of Arabian dreams.
If you feel the need to get out of the city, then there is a wealth of adventure open to you. The High Atlas Mountains are a mere 40km from Marrakech – an hour’s taxi ride will see you firmly ensconced among them. Here you can ride, trek, ski or simply soak up the purity of the air and inhale the natural aromas. In spring, wild flowers cover the mountainsides while in autumn the smells of the fruit harvest assail the senses.
A little further away you can begin to explore the edges of the Sahara. The desert is spectacular: its shape-shifting sand dunes and stunning rock formations will take your breath away. You can also make the most of this unique opportunity to observe the semi-nomadic lifestyles of the people who live here.
Medina North
It’s here, within the dense, claustrophobic atmosphere of the Old City, enclosed by its ancient walls, that the majority of visitors to Marrakech spend their time. Here, the magic and mystery of traditional Moroccan life reveal themselves in everyday hustle and bustle.
The endless parade of street traders, cart-pulling donkeys, sweating artisans, blind beggars, playful children and assorted mysterious figures seems frozen in time – and in some ways it is. You may find that initially the exotic sights and distinctive smells of the Medina overwhelm you, but a couple of hours are usually all you need to adapt.
The biggest draws in the northern section of the Old City are the Jemaa el Fna and the souks, as well as historic sights such as the Koutoubia Mosque and the stunning Ben Youssef Medersa.
Of course, one of the most memorable adventures can be yours by simply surrendering yourself to the vicissitudes of the maze. Strolling down nameless street after nameless street (the locals will soon let you know if you’ve wandered somewhere you shouldn’t), you can discover unique ways of life that will leave a permanent impression on your imagination.
It’s here in the Medina that the riad boom began – intimate conversions of traditional homes with picturesque courtyards, run as maisons d’hôte. Riads offer a particular kind of tranquillity and refuge from the bustling alleyways and souks that is not found elsewhere in the city. There are several wonderful examples of these, notably Riad Farnatchi, Riad el Fenn and Riad Tchaikana.
The Medina’s policy regarding alcohol is not as relaxed as elsewhere in Marrakech, since it is the Old City and home to some of the most important mosques. Here alcohol can only be found in the hotel bars (in the Jardins de la Koutoubia and the Mamounia, for example), or in restaurants. Speaking of restaurants, there are some fabulous places to visit, many of them set in beautiful old buildings, with gurgling fountains and tables covered in rose petals – opulence and romance are the bywords here. While you are in Marrakech, visits to Le Tobsil, Dar Moha or Dar Marjana are highly recommended.
For many, the Medina’s greatest attraction are the souks. Row upon row of tiny stalls, clustered together along narrow twisting alleys, begin to fan out from the northern section of the Jemaa el Fna and never seem to stop. Shopping in the souks is one of the most quintessential Marrakech activities, although those without much experience would do well to practise their haggling skills beforehand.
Medina South
The southern half of the Medina is slightly calmer than the north. While there are still twisting derbs and winding alleyways, the workshops and souks are less apparent while the residential areas are more so; seemingly, this area is the more affluent.
Like the north, however, it is filled with interesting sights and sounds. The Bahia Palace, the Saadian Tombs, the Royal Palace and the Agdal Gardens draw those interested in the history and architecture of the city. Then there’s the Koutoubia, visible from virtually all parts the city, and the convenient meeting-place and non-stop circus that is the Jemaa el Fna.
Some of Marrakech’s finest riads and hotels are found here in the south, including the legendary Mamounia hotel, the luxurious Villa des Orangers, the elegant Dar les Cigognes and the eclectic Riad Dyor. They epitomize the style and design with which the city has become synonymous, and are dedicated to contemplation and relaxation.
The contrast between life inside and outside the Medina is palpable. Within the walls of the Old City, time stands still. Donkeys are still as common as motorbikes, butchers and vendors sell their wares on the dusty streets, and artisans busy themselves with traditional crafts.
Indulging in a hammam/gommage is a must for all visitors to Marrakech. A weekly cleansing ritual for locals, many of whom live without showers and baths in their homes, is essential for personal hygiene. The local hammams can be daunting for strangers at first, but people are incredibly welcoming and there is always someone to guide you through the process if you are unsure.
If you prefer luxury and pampering over local experience, head for the Bains de Marrakech – an upmarket spa annexed to the wonderful Riad Mehdi. This is a great place to rejuvenate and de-stress.
There are plenty of restaurants in this lower half of the Medina, such as the wonderfully traditional Dar Zellij, and of course the funky Koz’i Bar, which serves up fabulous sushi. Alternatively, perhaps you would like to learn how to cook some tasty Moroccan food for yourself? If so, Souk Cuisine offers simple but memorable cooking classes in the heart of the southern Medina.
Palmeraie
A 15-minute drive outside the old city, La Palmeraie is famous for its eponymous palm trees and for the wealth of luxury accommodation (public and private) that exists here.
A dusty and arid suburb of Marrakech, it has evolved organically and somewhat haphazardly. It is home to spacious hotel complexes, including some wonderfully opulent oases of decadence, and some of the finest golf courses that Morocco has to offer.
The standard of accommodation available here makes La Palmeraie an attractive option for those wishing to be close to Gueliz and the Medina yet at the same time a million miles away.
The ramshackle, old-world charm of places such as Ayniwen offer exclusivity and privacy, while catering for your every whim. Alternatively, there’s the unparalleled luxury of Jnane Tamsna and Dar Zemora, both of which offer stunning gardens, azure pools and an air of exotic refinement.
The Palmeraie Golf Palace is also located here. Not only does it have an excellent golf course and a good riding stable, but it is also boasts the über-chic Nikki Beach.
Other challenging golf courses can be found at Amelkis and the Royal Golf Club, which host national and international tournaments. Another recent addition to the ever-growing list of Palmeraie addresses is the stunning Beldi Country Club, an enchanting spot that has a café, restaurant, pool and artisan workshop all in one place.
Unless you’re staying here, fancy a round of golf, or want to spend an afternoon at Nikki Beach or the Beldi, there’s little reason to visit La Palmeraie. If you can manage just one of these, however, you won’t leave disappointed.
