Centro
With Madrid’s uninspiring Manzanares river hovering on the western edge of the city, it’s left to the wide and equally uninspiring Gran Via to form the city’s natural north–south divide. The mercantile boulevard is always packed with traffic and pedestrians; it is Madrid’s equivalent to Oxford Street and the retail centre of the city.
The grand early 20th-century buildings are now home to shops, offices and hotels, some of them considerably more aesthetically pleasing than others. The Gran Via was built in three phases over nearly five years, replacing 14 smaller streets, and its construction was viewed as a symbol of Spain moving into the 20th century.
To the south of the Gran Via lies the Puerta del Sol, which marks the epicentre of the city and of Spain. This is the spot from which all distances in Spain are measured. Since it’s the nucleus of Madrid’s public transport network, it is a popular meeting-place and a focal point for tourists. Unfortunately, the prevalence of visitors inevitably attracts pickpockets, so keep an eye on your possessions.
Although the location is ideal, many of the hotels in this part of town are a little tired, but the recent arrival of Hotel Quo looks set to change all this. Its funky interiors and enthusiastic young staff make this a welcome addition to Madrid’s hotel scene.
Mid-priced shops are clustered around Calle de Preciados and Calle Carmen, while some of the larger chain stores line the Gran Via, including the city’s largest Zara. There are many little souvenir and dedicated handicraft shops in the area that sell everything from delicious nougat to intricately patterned fans, so it’s worth trawling the side streets looking for that authentic Madrid memento.
To the south-east of Sol is the Plaza Santa Ana, a touristy but pleasant square surrounded by cafés and restaurants. Head further east and you’ll find the streets of Las Huertas, lined with more places to eat and drink. It’s relatively quiet here by day but at night the shuttered doors and windows open to reveal cocktail bars, discos, karaoke joints and music clubs that keep going until the early hours.
Calle Jesus is home to a string of funky little tapas bars, such as Los Gatos and Taberna Maceira, where locals and tourists alike work their way along the street enjoying a quick bite to eat and a glass of tinto at each one.
The streets here lead down to the Paseo del Prado, where you’ll find the city’s golden triangle of museums: the Thyssen, the Reina Sofia and, of course, the famous Prado. Madrid’s three major museums and galleries are conveniently located within a short walk of each other, although there is far too much to see in just one day.
There are some reasonably priced hotels here, like the Hotel Mora, and perhaps Madrid’s most famous hotel, the Ritz. Even if you don’t stay here, it’s worth dropping by to see the ornate interiors and to enjoy afternoon tea.
