Milan : Sleep
In a city powered by fashion and design, it’s surprising to discover a relative absence of design hotels. It’s even more peculiar considering Milan’s abundance of accomplished architects and reputation for discerning style. But most hotels cater for businessmen who come to Milan to make money all year round. The corporate hotels are generally focused around the Stazione Centrale and to a lesser extent in Piazza Repubblica (where Milan’s main station used to be).Fortunately Milan has been under the developer’s spotlight in the new millennium thanks to increasing awareness of this design hotel demand-supply skew. New hotels have sprung up all over Milan like it’s winning a game of Monopoly, with ‘haute hotels’ such as the Bulgari Hotel (the jeweller’s first foray into hospitality) and the Park Hyatt Milano both taking their lead from erstwhile numero uno super-luxe hotel The Four Seasons. Other newcomers are high fashion hotels the Gray and Hotel Straf, and boutique hotels such as 3Rooms, Townhouse 31 and 12, and Petit Palais.
Another trend is the antica locanda (or old-fashioned inn); in chic Milan that means a boutique-style bed-and-breakfast. Antiche locande Leonardo, Solferino and Mercanti, and the Mercanti’s neighbour, Alle Meraviglie – situated in historic townhouses – are charmingly and sympathetically styled and all give the feeling of being a guest in someone’s house; staff retire when guests do, so receptions are only manned during the day; some offer night porters, others provide keys. Mod-cons are not givens in these more modest establishments, often because their landlords are resolute Luddites.
Some of the most important hotels in Milan are the oldest; here, guests can most assimilate real Milanese culture. Grand Hotel et de Milan and Hotel Principe di Savoia both compete for the crown of grandeur. Some have forsaken modern improvements for conservation reasons (the Liberty-style Sheraton Diana Majestic is one such behemoth). Other bastions have modernized along the way, often resulting in clashing styles.
Visitors can assume a four-star-plus hotel room will come equipped with a safe, fridge/minibar, aircon, noise insulation, satellite- and pay-TV, direct phone, laundry services, internet access and conference facilities. Milan’s high season is during its world-famous furniture fair La Fiera in April. Bookings need to made well in advance and hotels can charge cancellation fees up to a month in advance over this period. Nevertheless, don’t be deterred by the human traffic – this is Milan at its most fun. In August, Milan’s low season, room prices plummet – but be warned that during this month the city becomes a ghost town as the Milanese vacate to the beach; most restaurants, bars and clubs close. The only people left are tourists that got a suspiciously good deal through their travel agent.
The rates quoted here are for a standard double in low season and a one-bedroom suite in high season. All hotels are scored for style, atmosphere and location (highest scorers are near the Duomo, Milan’s nucleus). If it seems that most don’t seem to offer much atmosphere, it’s probably because of the relative weighting of corporate clients; generally Milan’s hotels have also been slow – unlike Paris, London and New York – to catch onto the hip hotel bar, and most of these are not made for hanging out in.
