Josefov, P1
The Jewish Quarter lies to the north of the Royal Way and the Old Town, although little remains of what was once one of the most important Jewish communities in Central Europe. Josefov – the smallest of Prague’s districts – was named after Joseph II, the Holy Roman Emperor who looked favourably on the city’s Jewish community; today, tumbledown graveyards, ancient synagogues, narrow streets and gem dealers are all that remain of this once-proud area. Among the many legends of Josefov is the Golem, a figure of Jewish folklore made from inanimate matter, who used to defend the Jewish ghettoes and scare children into good behaviour.
The sophisticated shopping street of Parˇízˇská splits the district in two, contrasting the crumbling splendour of the Jewish community with the elegance of the modern designer retailers. This is Prague’s equivalent of London’s Sloane Street; international fashion houses have had a presence here for years, and are steadily squeezing out the tackier, more tourist-orientated stores.
The Rudolfinium, home of the Czech Philharmonic Orchestra, presides over námeˇstí Jana Palacha. This open square is named after a 21-year-old who set himself alight in protest at the Soviet invasion; in a show of solidarity over 800,000 people attended his funeral. Close by stands the Museum of Decorative Arts, which displays the kind of innovative Art Deco and Art Nouveau pieces and fine glassware for which the city is so renowned.
East of Parˇízˇská is where Prague’s more urbane nightlife is found; the cocktail bars Bugsy’s, Tretters and Ocean Drive form a social nucleus all of their own, where the city’s affluent locals and ex-pats can congregate with well-heeled tourists; all these places can all get fairly lively at weekends. A more alternative scene flourishes in bars such as the Tom Tom Club and the Roxy nightclub.
Overall, Josefov is a fascinating and pleasant district; like its neighbouring quarters, its narrow lanes and plethora of sights, cafés, shops and bars make it perfect for exploring on foot.
Hradcany and Mala Straná
Hradcany and Mala Straná are two small districts that rise up above the river to the west of Charles Bridge. Much like the rest of Prague, they are steeped in history and draw a large concentration of sightseers determined to explore the steep, cobbled streets and feast their eyes on the fabulous architecture.
Prague’s most recognizable landmark is its castle; perched above the city like a watching eagle, it has been the bastion of government for centuries. Today the castle complex has grown and expanded to become a mini-city – within its walls, churches, galleries and museums draw visitors from around the world while heads of state come to meet the government and president. This and its immediate environs make up the Hradcˇany district, which stretches up to the top of the hill to include the Strahov Monastery and the Loreto.
Unfortunately, apart from its cultural interest it doesn’t have too much to offer the visitor. The Savoy Hotel and Domus Henrici are perched above the castle while rural U Raka lurks beneath; all three provide a good base from which to explore all the complex has to offer.
Mala Straná, like the Old Town, is packed with tourists. Forming the western approach to Charles Bridge, the lesser quarter acts as a funnel for visitors crossing the bridge and continuing on up the Royal Way towards the castle. Consequently, on the busy Nerudova and Mostecká thoroughfares, expect to find tour groups blocking your path as they stare longingly at model houses, frightening marionettes and Prague Drinking Team T-shirts. However, it is beautiful – which is why they come flocking in droves.
Take the time to wander off the beaten track and go exploring; navigate your way round the small side streets and discover some interesting cafés or restaurants. The terrace restaurant of U Zlaté Studneˇ hotel, for example, offers fabulous views and gourmet cuisine in serene and little travelled surroundings.
Being a distinctly touristy area, Mala Straná has a plentiful selection of hotels for you to choose from. Probably the most intriguing of these is the newly opened Aria, which is a masterpiece of ingenuity and innovation devoted to music. Likewise there are many restaurants where you can indulge your culinary fantasies. Unfortunately a number of places have recently opened to lure in sightseers tempted by the idea of ‘authentic’ traditional cooking; but there’s little point bothering with these, when restaurants such as Kampa Park and Hergetova Cihelná can offer you excellent food in beautiful locations.
Nove Mesto (New Town), P2
Prague’s New Town is not what you might expect. Instead of the concrete, glass and neon signs the name might suggest, you get stunning baroque and Art Nouveau architecture. Founded in 1348 by Charles IV, the New Town has continued to grow and develop, and is now in part typified by the 1920s and 1930s showpiece architecture of Wenceslas Square.
Nové Meˇsto is essentially an extension of the Old Town, but its streets are wider, and its focus falls less on the tourist trade and more on day-to-day Czech life. However, since it’s still a chic and expensive area, its inhabitants are usually wealthy – everybody else lives further out, in Zizˇkov, Vinohrady and beyond.
Within the New Town are two distinct areas, separated by Wenceslas Square. To the west is the trendy district known as SoNa (‘South of the National Theatre’). Here you’ll find Prague’s designers, writers and media types, drawn to the area by the more alternative scene vibrant in the area’s many bars and restaurants.
These establishments fall into two categories: simple, shabby–chic places with old-fashioned décor, smoky air and heavy cooking; and the new breed of designer cafés serving frothy coffees, Asian fusion food and Californian wines.
Wenceslas Square is a dichotomy of styles: beautiful Art Nouveau edifices fight with faceless Soviet-era department stores. This is Prague’s Leicester Square, packed with tourists, large international shops and several strip joints. Commerce is the name of the game, from the mainstream retailers to the hookers and dealers who hang around the bottom end of the square.
At the top end are the National Museum and the State Opera. And to the east is a quieter, more residential area where small shops cater for local clientele. There are also some stunning buildings, glamorous hotels and the much-vaunted Mucha Museum. Na Prˇíkopeˇ, the shopping street that forms the border between New and Old Town, offers four or five shopping centres as well as some familiar high-street stores.
Notable restaurants in this part of town include Zahrada v Operˇe, a chic and stylish estabishment that is part of the State Opera complex, and Kogo, the haunt of politicians, tourists and well-placed ex-pats.
The New Town is also the home of the luxurious Carlo IV, arguably the Czech Republic’s most opulent hotel, which contrasts dramatically with the humdrum huddle of hotels dotted around the main square, which are mostly soulless sorts that cater to tour groups and business conferences.
Prague
Undoubtedly one of the most beautiful cities in Europe, Prague draws in tourists from around the world to revel in its splendour. The city of a thousand spires is a stunning amalgamation of hundreds of years of architecture, from narrow, medieval streets, through Baroque, neo-Renaissance, Art Nouveau and Art Deco, culminating in cutting-edge modern design. One of the joys of visiting the city is its size – so small that all the interesting museums and churches are within walking distance of each other.
Prague is made up of many distinct districts. The heart of the city encompasses Hradcany, Mala Straná, Staré Mesto, Nove Mesto and Josefov and, as in so many other European cities, those that live in the centre tend to be the more affluent and the ex-pats. The ‘real’ Czechs live in surrounding areas, such as Vinohrady, Zizkov and Smíchov, where the architecture may not be as beautiful and English is less widely spoken.
For the last decade Prague has become the darling of the film industry. Many films have been shot here, from The Third Man to more recent pictures such as XXX and The League of Extraordinary Gentlemen.This is not just because of the architecture. To a large extent it’s a result of the cost of living in the Czech Republic: workers can earn as little as a £1 an hour and a pint of beer outside the centre rarely costs more than 50p, making it an incredibly cheap place to set up a shoot.
In recent years Prague has acquired an altogether different reputation, which has come about in part because of the glut of low-cost flights. These have opened up the city, making it a centre for cheap beer and cheap sex. At weekends groups of lads in matching shirts loudly roam the streets. This guide aims to divert you away from all that and to reveal the unique attractions that Prague has to offer.
Prague’s tourist industry has boomed considerably in the 15 years since the fall of Communism. At the outset there were a few hotels, a couple of traditional but mediocre restaurants and the odd grand café. Today it is a different story altogether: a multitude of eating establishments has opened up, catering to every requirement – some of them even offering gourmet food in stunning surroundings. Bars, cafés and nightclubs have developed at the same speed, and deliver the same range of sophistication.
To enjoy Prague at its finest, spend some time wandering the streets and exploring all its little nooks and crannies. Take a walk along the Royal Way from Námestí Republiky up to the castle, relishing the sights along the way. Pop into one of the small cafés or indulge in a long, leisurely lunch on the terrace of one of the city’s finest restaurants. In the evening experience a concert in one of the splendid churches or spoil yourself and take a box at the opera, followed by a gourmet dinner and a couple of cocktails. After all, the pursuit of pleasure is your ultimate goal.
Stare Mesto (Old Town), P1
The Old Town is the centre of historic Prague. Tourists flock to Old Town Square to admire the architecture and gaze at the Astronomical Clock’s hourly morality play. The narrow, cobbled streets epitomize the timelessness of the city, and lure you into an exploration of its enigmatic courtyards and alleyways.
Inevitably, the district’s charismatic appeal means that it is also awash with sightseers. The Royal Way, which runs from Námestí Republiky to Charles Bridge, is often crowded with tour groups following women with umbrellas yelling out instructions and piecemeal histories.
If you want to discover the real essence of the Old Town, it’s best to detach yourself from the obvious routes and attempt spontaneous detours and back routes; you really can’t get too lost, so don’t worry about taking wrong turns.
While the Old Town boasts many exceptional hotels, bars, cafés and restaurants, it is generally more geared towards themed and ‘authentic’ tourism than the rest of the city. Owing to the narrowness of the streets and the diminutive size of the buildings, hotels here tend to be cosy and intimate rather than imposing and grand.
One of the best in the city is the Hotel U Prince, directly on Old Town Square, whose comfortable, ornate rooms and traditional elegance reflect Prague’s past grandeur. Nearby Residence Reteˇzová is a collection of apartments in an old town-house, offering the visitor both comfort and independence.
Many of the restaurants within the Old Town lure tourists in with the ‘authentic’ card, but they’re often disappointing. Flambée, a formal, designer cellar restaurant serving Czech–French fusion food, is a distinct (and distinguished) exception; Parnas, a glorious old-world, Art Deco spot with stunning views over the river and Castle, is also recommended; and V Zátisˇí, a Czech–French hybrid set on the perfectly charming Betlemska square, has been rated by critics as one of the best in the country.
There are noteworthy cafés in Old Town, but while it can be pleasant to lunch here and bask in the sunshine with the crowds, you might be better off elsewhere. Café Café enjoys views of the Estates Theatre, offers a great cup of coffee and plays host to the Czech glitterati. Nostress is a stylish spot, tucked away just behind Old Town Square; and Café Montmartre epitomizes the nostalgic Bohemian chic of yesteryear.
