Physical activities may not be high up on the list of things to do in Istanbul, but there is only one major exception to the Turks' general disregard for sport, be it active participation or passive appreciation - football. Istanbul's three famous teams, Besiktas and Galatasaray from the European side, and Fenerbahçe from the Asian, are feared both on and off the pitch. An Istanbul derby, if you can catch one during the season, which runs from August till May, is a sight (and sound) to behold.

More joy is to be had on the therapeutic front. Swimming provides a pleasing break from the hustle of the big city. Sadly, despite having more shoreline than any other city around, the nearest decent beaches to be found are on the Black Sea coast or on the Marmara Islands, both of which tend to be swamped when it's hot and are about half a day's journey away. Then there is of course, the hamam, or Turkish bath, experience, which involves lying around on heated marble slabs in a large and often beautiful stone room, and, if you wish, being soaped and massaged.